Simonicchi Simonicchi
Apartment in 15c farmhouse
Tuscan hills, Italy
Email: jenniferbarnard@libero.it
Tel/Fax: (0039) 0575 793 762
Send a message

Simonicchi Hamlet

The villagers' story, passed down from generation to generation is that Simonicchi was settled and farmed by wandering monks around the 1400s. First constructed of wood, it was later rebuilt in local stone. 40 year-old slides show the south side as a bleak medieval fortress guarding the track above the valley. Thankfully, it has softened over the years.

Today, apart from your hosts, there are only 3 other permanent residents in Simonicchi, whereas at the turn of the last century there were well over 50. During the 2nd World War with German occupation, there was great poverty, and when the roads were made the young men left in droves in search of work. Hard to imagine now that this peaceful backwater was in the middle of intense British/German action, but even the sheepfold received a direct hit.

The house and the great barn were bought and restored at different times and have only recently been made into one. Starting in 1987 the work developed by stops and starts until it eventually included a capana, a pigsty, the ill-fated sheepfold, and a wilderness of nettles and brambles. There was not even a way down to the fields. Thanks to the tireless efforts of friend Vittorio who can do anything, we have made an exciting English/Tuscan garden where Bramley Seedling, fig and apricot grow side by side with lavender and pinks.

< top of page

Valley of Sovaggio

 
The Valley and Forests of Sovaggio offer a panorama of continuous interest -- from changing light to changing season. Tree and plant life flourish here, the air is considered very healthy and water drawn from springs in the forest is good for drinking. Sweet chestnuts are cultivated and harvested in October but apple, pear, peach and cherry grow wild. There are also many varieties of berry fruits but the most sought after 'crop' in the forest is fungi. Villagers and townsfolk flood in with their baskets as soon as the word gets around that they have been seen. Most prized of all are porcini- boletus edulis - and truffles, and the local houses and restaurants always have them on the menu.

It is beautiful here in any season. The fields and hilltops are covered with wild flowers and herbs in spring and summer. Daffodil, crocus and iris appear in turn and cyclamen line the footpath to the monastery in October. In autumn the forest is ablaze with colour and on sunny winter days it sometimes sparkles with frost or snow. It is home to a variety of animals, some reintroduced as part of a government programme. There are wild boar, several kinds of deer and fox, porcupines, badgers, feral cats and black squirrels. Birds are returning in greater numbers every year as are the butterflies which include humming-bird hawk-moths and rare southern swallowtails.

 

< top of page

St. Francis

St. Francis of Assisi (1181-1226). The road from Caprese winds up Mt. Sovaggio, passing Simonicchi, on the way to Mt. Penna given to the saint by Count Orlando of Chuisi. This is an area St. Francis knew well. He and his companions had a primitive camp on Penna in a place of strange rock formations and ancient forest known as La Verna. From there they travelled down from village to village on the still-used network of footpaths, preaching and begging for alms. It was at La Verna the saint received the stigmata in 1224. Now it is the site of the Sanctuario della Verna, a monastery which houses many relics of his life and a has beautiful collection of Della Robbia ceramic reliefs.

Dante wrote of St. Francis:


In untamed crags
between the Tevere and Arno,
he takes, from Christ, the ultimate sign
to be carried for two years
on his hands and feet.
bronze of St. Francis by Jennifer Frears Barnard

After the stigmata, unable to walk, he returned on mule-back to Assisi along the flat ridge of Mt. Sovaggio. A refuge marks the spot where he made his first night camp. Nearly hidden by trees it is just visible from Simonicchi. Hardy travellers shelter there, rest on stone beds and grill their supper over an open wood fire - much as it must have been 800 years ago. A bottle or two of wine is usually in their pack!

Several times a year on religious feast days, huge crowds from the villages gather on the summit to hold open air Mass in memory of St. Francis followed by a sprawling ‘family’ picnic on the grass.

< top of page

Simonicchi
Apartment in 15c Tuscan farmhouse
Send a message